"Mussels are sensitive to temperature change. The heat kills them and the cold delays their growth. The 'kokoretsia' (the rope where the mussels are grown) must reach the bottom of the seabed, so that crabs can go up and eat the spawn that covers the mussels and clean them. Crabs weigh over 400 grams and have claws that can cut a whole fish in the middle".

The best in Europe

Theodore Photopoulos from Nea Malgara of Thessaloniki, grows mussels at the estuary of Loudias river in Thermaikos gulf. The sea is shallow there because of the material which is brought form the river, so much that his "plava" (boat without a keel) sometimes gets stuck in the sand. Summer is like a Turkish bath under the "arbours" (constructions made of chestnut wood from which the mussels hang), not only because of the burning sun, but also because of the water's evaporation that causes discomfort.

Theodore is used to the "tropical" conditions and he can stand it. Wearing shorts and without a hat, he brings up the "kokoretsia" with smooth movements in order to clean them from the seaweed and the spawn. Afterwards, he sinks them in the water to let them feed on the nutrients that are plentiful in the river's estuary.

From May to August, when the harvest takes place, there are ten trailers that load mussels at Loudias's shellfish area and carry them abroad. "In Italy it takes two years for the mussels to grow and they are tiny, without a lot of meat. I've heard that we are the best in Europe. Nevertheless, we the Greeks consume less than 1% of the mussels produced in our country".

Seventeen mussel recipes

"How many of you know that there are seventeen dishes made with mussels? Try eating them roasted and you won't regret it", the veteran mussel breeder Thomas Poptsis recommends. "We open the mussels and we array them in the pan leaving them with one of their shells.  On each of the mussels we put a small piece of cheese, some tomato and parsley. No salt or oil is needed. We put them in the oven for a little while and are rewarded with one of the best mezedes* of all time".

Mr. Thomas and his wife spend most of their time in a wooden house, which leans on some stakes in the waters of Loudias. The house shines not only of cleanliness but also because of the smiling faces of the people living in it. Macedonians are easy to open their house door and their hearts to strangers. Macedonians are always ready to open their doors and hearts to strangers.

*Mezes (mezedes in plural) is a selection of small dishes served to accompany alcoholic drinks as a course or as appetizers before the main dish in Greece

TEXT-PHOTOS: GEORGE ZAFEIROPOULOS
SOURCE: www.greecewithin.com

MORE PHOTOS

Cormorans resting on the structure where the 'kokoretsia' are hung.

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