Α day in Mount Athos begins and ends in the church. Monks move along like shadows in the dim light, singing hymns that have been perfected after years of repetition. In monasteries, monks work hard in order to exercise their faith, take care of the huge and old buildings but also to feed the thousands of visiting worshipers whilst always being available to listen to their pain or joy.

The bells are calling

The gongs and bells sound on Mount Athos long before dawn and remind the faithful that they should hurry up, for they have a long way to ‘travel’ until they become ‘kind’ men. In the Christian faith, of course, it's never too late, since even the robber who was crucified next to Jesus, was literally saved at the last minute. The bells are calling him though, just in case his time on earth is limited, preventing him from postponing the difficult struggle of for self-improvement.

When the worshipers wake up, they don't spruce up or shave, since there are no mirrors on the walls. Of what use would this be of anyway? For them to see the wrinkles on their faces, signs that time is passing them by? This is a superficial image that doesn't matter on Mount Athos. It's a place where a man seeks to remember his true self, a memory latched on a small part of his soul. He wants to be sure that he remains the same person; that he hasn't become somebody else; he struggles to save his original image; a process that has nothing to do with his external looks. He is looking for a chance, which he well knows may be his last.

The creative rush always rules Mount Athos, even during meals. Dinner guests eat simple foods almost lightning-fast, without saying a word. Only a low-voiced monk can be heard, reading prayers and exhortations, as well as the spoons clinking on the zinc plates. If someone doesn’t eat quickly he will be hungry, because the food is not regarded as a source of enjoyment, but as an act necessary to survival. However, the ritual is fulfilling and the gratification is superior to ordinary meals with friends, where people eat for hours and talk incoherently.

The creative rush always rules Mount Athos, even during eating. During meals, the dinner guests eat simple foods almost lightning-fast, without saying a word. Only a low-voiced monk can be heard, reading prayers and exhortations, as well as the spoons clinking on the zinc plates. If someone doesn’t eat quickly he will be hungry, because the food is not concerned as a delight, but as an act needed for survival. However, the ritual following the meal is delightful and the final gratification is superior to the ordinary secular blowouts, where people eat for hours and waffle incoherently.

The gates close

The gates of the monasteries on Mount Athos close early in the evening, regardless whether it is dark or not, and the visitors are asked to return to their cells. There, they find sheets and blankets on their beds and a towel hanging on the headboard. The only decoration is some simple illustrations and some crosses hanging on the walls, while there are no keys at the doors.

As night falls, total silence prevails. Those who cannot sleep can study books on the lives of the Saints and learn about people who surpassed human nature in order to become Saints. In the serenity of the night on Mount Athos, even sceptics start to believe the stories they would have dismissed a few days earlier.

TEXT-PHOTOS: GEORGE ZAFEIROPOULOS
SOURCE: www.greecewithin.com

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