Beirut is a fragile multinational and multi-religious city, a place often in turmoil. Wars have been raging for decades in Lebanon, while huge geopolitical games are being played by the Great Powers. The conflicting political powers in this country are so many that unequivocal political approaches are practically worthless. In an attempt to generalize, though, there are two main movements in Lebanon, the pro-western and the Arabic.

Divided Muslims

Prosperous and westernized Sunni Muslims, as well as Druze Muslims, wish for complete disengagement from Syria, which they consider an expansive force, even though they too are Sunni and have withdrawn their military forces from Lebanon. They don’t acknowledge the Iranian-friendly and Shiite community Hezbollah, as they consider Palestinians a source of turmoil and instability and wish they could run them out of Lebanon. 

On the other hand, Shiite Hezbollah and poor Sunni Muslims represent the fighting Arabic and Islamic facade of Lebanon. Syria, which strongly supports them, withdrew its forces from Lebanon under the condition that Bekaa Valley would remain under the control of Hezbollah.

Ever since Syria lost control of the Golan Heights to Israel, it does not want Bekaa Valley to come under the control of hostile powers, as it is situated on its western borders and is of important fortification value. Since the Middle-East is almost totally flat, all heights, including the ones in Bekaa Valley, are coveted by the military, especially the Syrian army, which is technologically inferior to the Israeli one.

Powerful Christians

Catholic Christians, who constitute 30% of the general population, agree with the western orientation of Lebanon, and have practically established their own country within the troubled Muslim world in the Middle East. Huge statues of Christ and the Virgin Mary overlook Beirut from hilltops, indicating and purposely exaggerating, their right to survive in the center of the Muslim world and participate decisively in the governing of Lebanon.

Beirut is divided into the Christian and Muslim Sector, not by bars or walls, but by an imaginary line that the enemies are well aware of and no armed man from each side dares to violate. Citizens however, as well as cars, pass from one sector to the other, for work, business and entertainment.

Persecuted Palestinians

Palestinian refugees align themselves with Hezbollah, being the only ones sympathizing with them, and this is why they are often on the receiving end of other Lebanese’s rage, and of course, that of the Israelis.

The living conditions in refugee camps are truly horrendous and the Great Powers’ passive stance in the face of these tortured people is a source of great embarrassment.

On one hand, the division of the Lebanese bodes well with the Israelis, as they can never pose a real threat. However, it also has a downside, as it leaves Hezbollah unchecked and free to attack its northern borders. Occasionally, they strike back with disproportionately harsh military attacks, inevitably hurting civilians of Southern Lebanon, many of whom are Palestinians.

Contrasting cultures

In the Christian sector, morals are obviously much more liberated than in the Muslim one, but definitely not unbridled. Medical centers provide world class health services and hotel units offer high standard luxuries. In the Muslim sector there has been major development during the past years, which would have been more significant if the Israeli army did not destroy the infrastructure with its frequent invasions. The Arab culture has influenced exquisite aesthetic modern buildings and stores, apart from the "magical" eastern bazaars, that seem to be unaffected by time.

Entertainment is limited but of great quality in the Muslim neighborhoods, contrary to the Christian nightclubs, which are noisier but decent. On the Christian beaches, there are thousands of sunbathers in the summer, with no sign of provocative behavior or outfit. On the Muslim beaches, there are a few sunbathers and they are far more conservative, especially the women.

Photo shooting is dangerous

When two different civilizations co-exist so close to one another, one respects the particularities of the other. This cross culturing experience reveals magic to the travelers, who however, must be careful and not defiant when visiting Beirut, especially in the Muslim sector, where there is a greater suspiciousness and the atmosphere is always tense.

Regarding photographers, they should not use bulky equipment, because they might be considered as spying on behalf of hostile powers. I will never forget the strict warning I was given by a waiter in a café in the Muslim sector of the city. "Be careful, if you keep on taking shots of bombed houses they will kill you". How did he know what I was photographing before I sat in his café? Was I being watched?

However, Greeks are seen with less suspicion in Lebanon, compared to the rest of the European travelers. For the Muslim Lebanese, their appeal of Greek origin is our special passport, since they are not disturbed with us being orthodox Christians, because our religion, as they say, was born in the same lands with theirs and never came from abroad, neither is it related to the crusaders. The same warm acceptance for Greeks is also showed by the catholic Christians of Lebanon. In the troubled Middle-East, all people without an exception, Arabs, Israelis and Palestinians, respect the Greeks.
TEXT-PHOTOS: GEORGE ZAFEIROPOULOS
SOURCE: www.greecewithin.com

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The coastal highway in the Muslim sector.

Muslim restaurant of excellent aesthetics.

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